Subsequently by searching the DORMAN CATALOG, approximately 20 POSSIBLE CHOICES emerged. There are a very large number of automobile wheel studs that are 14 mm at the shoulder, so pressed-in automobile wheel studs seemed to be a good option. By measurement, the hole in the tensioner plate is precisely 14mm. The choice of an appropriate fastener was also by design. This was further reduced to TWO BEST choices the T42015 and T42025. There are many choices, In fact, from this comprehensive set of choices the selection was reduced to THE FEW COLORED choices that were purchased for further inspection. Again, some research into the availability of bearings lead to the LIST OF REPLACEMENT PULLEYS for automotive use. The next option considered was to try to find appropriate parts to replace the OEM pulleys and shafts. It was clear that rebuilding using identical parts was not a viable option. In my phone discussion with NTN about the NUMBERS on the bearing, it was explained that the bearing used the shields, cages and balls from that bearing but the inner and outer races were specifically manufactured for the OEM application. In short, the bearings and pulleys are specially made for Honda (and maybe others, like Porter-Cable) by NTN and could not be obtained directly from the OEM manufacturer (NTN). The GORY DETAILS of the OEM tensioner bearings and pulleys are interesting but not relevant. The first option that was considered was to try to rebuild using exact parts. The only exception to that statement would be for the GL1000 when you are fitting back the original heat shields that were later dropped from the 1100. This is to say that any of these methods will work equally well on any Gold Wing. The bearings and pulleys are identical for all models of Gold Wings (except of course the GL1800 that has no timing belts). After receiving them, it was immediately evident that the only difference between the two kinds were the backing plates. Ebay yielded a pair of worn out tensioners off a GL1000 and also a single one off a GL1200 for the project experiments. Likewise, GL1200 and GL1500 tensioners are identical but different than 1000/1100 tensioners. It was determined that GL1000 and GL1100 tensioners are identical. To do that in a sound manner would require some research. If I had been “out of a ride” for this 4 weeks during good weather, I would have been a bit miffed, so I immediately determined to find a way to rebuild the old ones. They were backordered and I was told that it would take about 4 weeks to get them. I didn’t change them, but ordered a new set. My “Editor’s” Choice Custom Hex Bolt MethodĪfter I changed my timing belts last winter, I noticed that the tensioners were a bit looser than I thought they should be.I’ve summarized some of the best choices below with a descriptive title. This also might be particularly useful on the road for an emergency repair, or the very “budget minded” who would rather spend some time to save a few bucks.īelow there are more possible methods than you probably want to know. However, this part is often in short supply and in many cases backordered, so at least those of you that are somewhat handy with tools may be happy to substitute something different that is equally as good, if not better in “fit and function”. And this is still a reasonable price considering that it is the complete assembly, so I am not necessarily recommending that anyone abandon the OEM solution when it is still available. New OEM tensioners are available for $60 to $80 each. You can rebuild your timing belt tensioner for less than $20 with quality parts (the same ones used on automobiles). It may be freely copied or distributed if you include the acknowledgement of the origin. It is for use by the Gold Wing community. Information developed on or about Maby sandiegobrass Rebuild the Timing Belt Tensioner - DIY $20 (Preliminary Version) (and good for all Gold Wings GL1000, GL1100, GL1200, GL1500)
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